Ice, Rock and Alpine Climbing Terminology

Abalakov or V-thread

• A V-shaped hole made in the ice with a sling rung through it to form an anchor. Often used for rappelling on ice.


Anchor

• An attachment that secures a climber to the cliff or climb.


Belay

• The technique of securing a climber with a rope.


Beta

• Slang for a detailed description of the route or conditions.


Bolt

• An anchor that is drilled into the rock.


Bomber or Bombproof

• An anchor that is extremely safe and secure.


Cam

• Use counter pressure to lodge in a crack; a device that uses counter pressure to lodge in a crack.


Carabiner

• A metal quick link with a spring loaded gate that is used to connect harnesses, ropes or protection together. Also called "biners".


Clean

• Used to describe removing anchors and protection from a route or to describe a route that does not have loose rocks, moss or other vegetation.


Crampons

• Equipment with metal spikes that attaches to boots and eases movement ice or hard snow.


Crux

• The most difficult move on a route.


Drag

• Used to describe the amount of resistance a rope has when pulling against the cliff or pulling through protection.


Draws

• Short slings with carabiners that help manage the location of a rope.


Edge

• A very small ledge on the cliff or the technique of standing on an edge.


Exposure

• Used to describe the overall "airyness" of the climb including vertical height off the ground and steepness.


Figure Eight

• A knot or rappelling device.


Ice Screw

• A metal screw used as protection in ice.


Jug

• A large hand hold.


Lead

• To climb first up a route, placing protection as you climb.


Lieback

• The technique of pulling with your hands and pushing with your feet.


Line

• The route of the climb.


Pitch

• The section of rock or ice between belays.


Piton

• A metal spike that is hammered into rock as a form of protection.


Placement

• The art of placing rock or ice protection.


Protection or Pro

• Anchors that are placed and used to reduce the distance the lead climber would fall should he/she slip.


Prusik

• A friction knot OR the art of ascending a fixed rope.


Quickdraws

• See draws.


Rappel

• The are of descending a rope with a friction device.


Runout

• The distance between two points of protection.


Self-arrest

• The technique of stopping after of a fall on steep snow or low-angled ice by using an ice tool.


Sling

• A webbing loop either tied or sewn used for anchors or as part of the protection.


Smear

• The technique of using friction to stand on steep rock.


Stem

• The technique of bridge between two holds far apart.


Top rope

• A technique of climbing where the belay is run through an anchor above the climber. Most climbers learn on top rope.


Traverse

• Sideways movement with gain or loss of elevation.


Verglas

• Very thin ice over rock.


Wall

• A very long climb.

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